Apparel Material Science ----- Basic Knowledge of Apparel (Continued 6)

⑾Yarns Transparent and thin fabric woven from twisted mulberry silk, rayon or synthetic fiber. The density of the warp and weft is relatively loose, the surface has all or part of the transparent gauze, the air permeability is good, the texture is thin, and it is widely used as curtains, mosquito nets and summer clothing. Common varieties are: georgette yarn, Lushan yarn, crowfoot yarn, curtain yarn, etc.

a. George's yarn: the warp and weft yarns are made of strong twisted silk, in which the warp yarns are arranged in 2S and 2Z phases and the weft yarns are arranged in 2Z and 2S phases. It has the characteristics of light and sparse texture, fine and even crepe on the surface, obvious yarn holes and overhanging and flowing. Suitable for summer dresses, shirts and wedding dresses.

b. Lushan yarn: the traditional product of Huzhou City, Zhejiang Province, which is a plain weave jacquard fabric woven with pure mulberry silk. The warp and weft yarns are twisted yarns, the warp yarns are arranged at intervals of 8S and 8Z, and the warp density is more than twice that of the weft density. The woven fabric has the characteristics of obvious silk surface crepe, plain color, clear straight strips and slightly fine yarn holes, light and light touch, good breathability. Suitable for summer shirts or trousers.

â‘¿Luo class uses the twisted warp woven by plied yarn as warp and weft yarns. Among them, there are two groups of warp yarns and one group of weft yarns, which are woven into horizontal or straight yarn holes in the silk surface. Leno fabric. It has a long history and many varieties. The common ones are Hangluo, Chuangjinluo and Suluo.

a. Hang Luo: The Luo fabric originally made in Hangzhou and woven from pure mulberry silk is called "Hang Luo". It is composed of plain weave and leno tissue. Its silk surface has regular straight or horizontal stripe holes. The holes are clear, the texture is rigid and smooth, comfortable and cool to wear, durable and washable. Mostly used as summer shirt and casual wear fabric.

b. Window brocade: Jacquard weave fabric woven with mulberry silk, with straight straight holes on the surface, embroidered with warp flowers and a small amount of weft flowers. . Mainly used as summer clothing or curtain decoration.

â’€ This kind of silk fabric adopts crepe structure, plain weave, twill and other tissues, and uses thick warp and weft yarns to weave a rich texture of wool-like texture. Generally, it is mainly interwoven with filament yarn and staple fiber yarn, and it is also made of interwoven mulberry silk and viscose yarn with medium twist. According to the appearance characteristics, it can be divided into two types: woolen type and silk type. The main varieties are: Dawei, May 1st, Kangle, Siwei, Ph.D., and yarn.

a. Dawei: It is a cloth-like fabric, which belongs to small warp and crepe weft. The front surface is woven irregularly, and the reverse side is a twill change organization. It has the characteristics of tight body, thick hand, soft luster, and dark patterns on the silk surface. Suitable for making gowns, short jackets, etc.

b. Gauze: plain weave jacquard fabric woven from flat warp and weft of viscose yarn. It has the characteristics of light and thin texture, flatness, smooth feel, and faint dotted appearance. Often used as summer or spring and autumn clothing.

⒁The velvet fabric is made of mulberry silk or chemical fiber filament, and is made of fluffed fabric. The plain fabric with fluff or loops on the surface is called velvet fabric. Features such as flexibility. The main varieties are: velvet, georgette, gold velvet, standing velvet, burnt-out velvet, etc.

a. Velvet: also known as Zhangrong, named after it originated in Zhangzhou, Fujian. It is a single layer pile fabric with pile or pile on the surface. It has the characteristics of densely piled piles or piles, soft luster, firm texture and wear resistance, mainly black, purple sauce, apricot yellow, blue, brown. Commonly used as high-end clothing fabrics, hats and sofas, cushion fabrics, etc. The storage is suitable for hanging, so as not to fall down and affect the appearance.

b. Qiao Qirong: A double-layer warp silk fabric interwoven with mulberry silk and viscose silk, which is divided into two layers to form fluff. The raised part is made of light viscose yarn, while the ground warp and weft are made of strong twisted mulberry silk, so it has the characteristics of piled upright pile, inclined forward, soft hand, full of elasticity, soft gloss and so on. Qiaoqi cashmere can be sorted by cutting velvet, shearing velvet, standing velvet, burnt-out flowers, printing, etc., to get such precious varieties as burnt-out georgette, hot-painted printed georgette. Suitable for women's evening dresses and ethnic dresses.

c. Standing velvet: A double-pile velvet fabric made of mulberry silk and rayon. The weaving method is the same as Qiao Qirong, the difference is that the standing pile is dense, short and smooth, and stands upright. It has the characteristics of tight velvet body, soft and plump hand, soft gloss and tough texture. Suitable for women's clothing, festive dresses, etc. When using it, prevent water drops from splashing and causing unsightly water marks.

- Author: admin
-Release time: 2005-10-19 22:30:40

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4. Wool fabric (1) Characteristics of wool fabric

Wool fabrics refer to fabrics made of wool, rabbit hair and other animal hairs and wool-type chemical fibers as the main raw materials, including pure, blended and interwoven fabrics, commonly known as woolen fabrics. Wool fabrics are well-known high-end clothing fabrics with many advantages.

1. Most woolen fabrics are composed of wool fibers, so they have good hygroscopicity and excellent dyeing performance, but the color is mostly dark.

2. Wool fabric has high elasticity, low thermal conductivity, and good thermal insulation performance. With wool fiber

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