Zhang Zifeng's summit road map

Altitude in each camp:
BC Altitude: 5140 meters (also the Everest Base Camp)
ABC altitude: 6000 meters
C1 altitude: 6200 meters
C2(AC): 6800 meters peak: 7543 meters

Topography characteristics of each section above the advance camp:


1, ABC (6000 meters) to C1 (6200 meters) is an ice-snow hybrid terrain with very gentle slopes. There is no danger of slipping and the slope is about 15 degrees. However, the cracks are staggered between the bright and the dark. This is the case during the entire march. Then it is slowly rising.


2. From C1 (6200 meters) to C2 (AC6800 meters), the slope of most sections is 60 degrees, and the individual places are steeper. This can be seen from the photograph. This is a standard uphill route that rises quickly, but it is also very consuming. After snowfall on the steep slopes, the snow is very thin. Below it is hard ice, and there are many places where the ice rock is mixed.


3, C2 (AC6800 meters) to the peak (7543 meters) first straight up to the ridge (about 7200 meters) This section of slope is about 50 degrees, basically snow, starting early in the morning and walking up very comfortable. As soon as the ridge reaches the peak, it is a thin mixture of floating snow and rocks. This year, it seems that the wind is relatively large, and the ridges can't keep the snow. The situation was exactly the same when Xiao Min described the Qing Hua Deng to me. They had a thicker snowfall at that time. Loose floating snow below is weathered broken rock, which makes it difficult to climb and descend.


The route we have climbed this time is a straight-upward climb from the northern wall of the mountain, which is much more difficult than the traditional southeast ridge route.


There were only a few stretches of climbing mixed terrain in the past, but this time it was a long mixed terrain. This is the first time I have climbed such a steep mixed terrain without building roads (just grouping).

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