Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas Collection Pierre retrospective reproduction of family classic masterpieces, Cadenas watch the origin of inspiration and design style Recently, Chengdu, France Palace jewelry watch family Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels to reopen from the 1930s, a modern aesthetic aesthetics treasure chest in the Chengdu International Financial Center gracefully presented Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas Collection Pierre retrospective exhibition , And bright Cadenas series released a new watch, the classic arts rejuvenation. The Cadenas watch, introduced in 1935, is a classic of the family inspired by modernist art. According to legend, this classic design behind the inspiration from the Duchess of Windsor. Gems "dedicated to my Wallis, her David donated" Looking back on the dust, the world of 1935, quite calm. In March of the same year, German Head Hitler announced on the radio: "Only by rebuilding the German army can the Germans defend themselves in the gunsmiths of Europe." Germany will resume its compulsory military service, undoubtedly for the Treaty of Versailles Blatant confrontation. In response, the British government announced the first expansion of British armaments since the end of World War I. The French parliament also decided to extend the deadline for compulsory military service. Over time, the war was overcast. The world can smell the smell of gunpowder, and it takes a long time to settle down. Moreover, the power released by the second industrial revolution is still being demonstrated. The optimism of consumerism is not so easy to disappear: 1935 On June 3, the luxury liner "Normandy" departs from Southampton and arrives in New York at a speed of 29.7 knots an hour, refreshing the transatlantic navigation record again. Also that year, the DC-3 passenger aircraft manufactured by the U.S. Douglas Company went into operation. With a capacity of 30 passengers, the DC-3 will be able to cross the east and west coasts of the United States with only one refueling trip. This will enable Airbus to equip its aircrafts with beds for the first time, bringing a revolutionary breakthrough to the new round of commercial flights. Note that the two milestones in the history of human traffic are, first and foremost, more comfortable and convenient for the thoroughfare connecting the old and new capitalist worlds. In the 1920s, it was once called "the jazz era." In 1931 Scott Fitzgerald, who was described as "the laureate poet of the Jazz Age," met Mrs. Wallis Simpson, the American beauty destined to affect his life. Prior to this, there was a couple of lovers who appeared in his fashion with the best crown of clothing, and asked the apartment operator to pull the phone number of the former friends . With the Prince met, Wallis already nearly forty years. The story of the woman married twice, once with the first married husband stationed in China, a KMT diplomat's wife had recalled Wallis acclimatized in China, "she only speaks Chinese is the waiter, the Champagne handed me. "" Between the two weddings, she had had a romantic history with Mussolini's son-in-law. Social circles in the upper class in the West say that big and small, small and small, jealous of her charm ladies who did not pass her rhetoric, such as she had learned with the brothel woman room secret ... ... Wallis Simpson married during the filming, card issuance is likely to come from the VCA Duke of Windsor photo of the official photo, his wife wearing VCA jewelry Duke of Windsor and wife. The two hedgehog brooches decorated with the duchess's headdresses and hats are signed by Van Cleef & Arpels. Cadenas watch inspired picture Minaudiere magazine, 1934, yellow K gold, inlaid inlay ruby Minaudiere magazine, 1934, rose gold, styptor alloy, inlaid ruby But Wallis's elegant intelligence and witty humor is beyond doubt. The woman with a beautiful mole on the left chin has beautifully styled, richly experienced, and conversationally polite, "A woman can never be too thin or too rich." (A woman can never be too thin or too rich. Can not be too skinny or too rich ") is enough to see its ingenious insight. In short, she falls far short of the rigid laws that prevail in the royal family and is out of tune with those red tape. She does not have the elegance of the British lady, but it has the grace and beauty of the American people independent and generous. It was precisely this vivid contrast that drank David, the British king who just made his name in the name of Edward VIII. She never regarded him as a king, whether he came to the throne or abdicated as Duke of Windsor, she said it all, Oh, David ... Two people's love in 1935 when you Lennon I have not been able to open. "Tiffany, Cartier ... Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend." Marilyn Monroe's song may darken the hearts of all women who fall in love. In her book Treasure and Legend - Van Cleef & Arpels, Vincenne Melanchurch wrote that gems rarely occupy such an important position in a love life, whether they be civilians or royalty. In the love affair of the Duke of Windsor and his wife, gems formed an emotional map on which each piece of jewelry was marked. "After all, he has considerable financial resources - earning £ 80,000 a year alone from Cornwall to meet all her desires." Van Cleef & Arpels' VIP history list began in 1935 with David as Simpson The history of his wife to buy jewelry, after years he spent billions of dollars for her Jieke can test. In 1936, their passionate love affair became the hot topic of the European and American gossip tabloid. In the whirlpool of public opinion, he presented her a bracelet of rubies and diamonds engraved with "Hold tight". Still in that year, he gave her a string of 101 rubies necklace gift to her, buckle engraved is no longer encouraging whisper, but love vows "My Wallis from her David (dedicated to my Wally Sri Lanka, her David gift). " Designed to pay tribute to industry, respect "modern" Biographer Hugo Vickers wrote in his Biography of the Duchess of Windsor that it was Wallis who turned the ever-growing, irresponsible and somewhat cowardly boy into a decisive act and even Dare to make the most extreme decision man. So that when the British government opposes their marriage on the basis of "the king of a country, the leader of the Anglican Church can not marry a woman who has twice divorced her," he gave up the throne with no hesitation. "No man ever gives up for a woman So much. "In 1937 they married at Kant castle in France, the man's morning gown, gray and white trousers, and the left chest that peony flowers, reminiscent of dunhill2016 spring and summer show the first appearance of the model. Naturally, no British royal family blessed, but it did not stop David wrapped with gems Wallis, almost all of these jewelry from Van Cleef & Arpels at No. 22 Fontenay in Paris - yes, mentioned earlier The two inscribed jewelry also come from there. From the beginning, Edward VIII ruled out London's jewelers, all his parents - Queen George, his uncle, aunt, or his brother's official supplier of jewelry in formal or informal settings. And Wallis did not like the Queen Victoria has been the meteor shower base of the British royal tradition of mosaic, they too thick. Always in the forefront of fashion she recommended him to a Parisian brand Van Cleef & Arpels. The name is no stranger to David, who bought a swallow brooch for himself in 1926 at the Van Cleef & Arpels in Fontenay - it is no surprise that Prince chose it. To know that this brand was founded in 1906, Nature has always been the main source of creative inspiration, animal and plant images of the jewelry can be described as common sense. But then Van Cleef & Arpels's statistics show that the Duke of Windsor, who does not love Jiang's beauty, apparently favors his wife more than he is appreciating. Duchess of Windsor, Van Cleef & Arpels has always been a loyal fan. Just as she did not like the cumbersomeness of British jewelery, apparently the Mystery Setting invented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1930 impressed the dexterous woman. The secret of the secret mosaic method is that before each gemstone is to be tessellated, it must first be carved into a small groove at the base of the gem by a grinting master and then slid into a metal setting made of a grid of weaves to keep it tight Arranged in a predetermined plan pattern, this method not only subvert the then jewelry technology, even today is still Van Cleef & Arpels one of the most proud of the technique. After the First World War, the wave of Art Deco spread throughout Europe and the United States, sweeping the globe. Both the Chrysler Building with its sparkling stainless steel spire in Manhattan, New York City, and the Sassoon House on the Bund with a brassiculously crafted green hat are all strikingly reminiscent of this style. Art Deco has not stopped in the field of construction, but also on the style of jewelry has played a significant role in promoting. Specific to the early French Art Deco description, is the preference for expensive materials, focusing on elegance, sophistication and luxury. It dictates that it is more characteristic of serving the aristocracy. This definition also applies to the evolution of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry design style during this period. 20s of last century, Van Cleef & Arpels treasure box launched in the elegant and fashionable women common practice. They are small, can be used to hold cosmetic mirror, powder, lipstick and a variety of products to create women's makeup, embodies the Art Deco "function over the decoration" side; the same time, the material is still elegant, still without losing French jewelry Expensive luxury 胄 pay attention. During this period, Wallis, the Duchess of Windsor, ingeniously began to power Van Cleef & Arpels' modernist aesthetics. In 1935, as a bold interpretation of the art of contemporary decoration, as well as being inspired by the story of a country not in love with beauty, Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas watch (translation: lock) was born, the band reminiscent of industrial-era gas Tube, the overall shape is a lock. Note that its dial face is not parallel but perpendicular to the arm wrist. Social occasions, the ladies are not suitable for people to see the time, only one glance quietly of course, of course, next to the "closest person" can also be from her shoulder-side sight and take the hint. It is said the following year, Edward VIII bought a Cadenas gave Wallis. The classic design of the Duchess of Windsor and Van Cleef & Arpels did not stop there. In 1939, she proposed to Renée Puissant, then an art director and the founder of the family, the custom-made jewelery zipper with functions and precious metals , To replace the weary ordinary zipper. The first Zip necklace was introduced in 1951 and can be worn in two distinct ways: the zipper can be worn as a necklace when pulled down and the bracelet can be worn as a pull. This reflects Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels in the infinite creativity and the transformation of wearing jewelry craft excellence. Duke of Windsor apparently loved his wife for a lifetime, even if later in life to accept a "threesome" life is also willing. Before his death, he expressed his wish to dismantle the jewelery of the two rooms before selling the jewel so that there was no second woman to wear the gift he gave to his beloved wife - fortunately, the wish was not enforced . Otherwise, at the elegant presentation of the Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas Collection at the Chengdu International Financial Center, we probably would not have seen this timeless and elegantly designed Cade-nas watch. Just like a woman's fickleness, there is no doubt that this concise and industrial watch with the elements of an architectural society presents the overall appearance of modernist aesthetics, but it seems that there is still some taste of adornmentism. Associate Professor Xu Yihong of Tongji University School of Creativity gave its own opinion in this regard, "March 7, the modern style of appearances accounted for the bulk, but part of the Cadenas watch is also between the modern art and decorative art ambiguity between the lock , Gas pipes and other objects of daily aesthetic aesthetics refinement to the meaning of industrial production to pay tribute, which is undoubtedly the characteristics of modernism.At the same time, its early models smooth surface, without additional complicated decoration, but the texture of precious metals showing the texture, but also with There is a French Art Deco style factor. " Interview with Ms. Catherine Cariou, Van Cleef & Arpels Heritage Director Q = "Beijing Youth" magazine A = Catherine Cariou Q: Van Cleef & Arpels has always been mentioned, everyone's impression is the main theme of naturalism, but this time Pierre exhibition has brought a different style. A: When we think of Van Cleef & Arpels, we will definitely think of a very beautiful brooch like birds, flowers, ribbons, bows and so on. Bliss birds, peonies, bow brooches These brooches are very naturalistic style. It is also a feature of our design in the 1930s that in the 1930s we could say that both styles coexisted. On the one hand is naturalism, on the other hand, is the so-called modernism. For example, we VCA's treasure box, is the invention of our VCA innovation. We can put inside to put an elegant lady all the necessary accessories, lighters, eye shadow and lipstick to attend the party. The naturalistic jewels you've seen before, the more abstract brooches you see now, or the jewelery, are two of the styles we coexist at the same time. Q: Specific to the Cadenas watch, how do you think it reflects the style of the times? A: We know that the 1930s were a period of prevalent industry and a time of skyscrapers, when a great variety of American skyscrapers came up. The new look of the building also influences the design of the jewelery watch, and the VCA has designed a wide range of jewelery such as tracks, gas pipes and more. Undoubtedly, it is the product of the influence of modernist aesthetics. Q: In the history of Van Cleef & Arpels, Duchess of Windsor and brand design deep roots, what do you think of the famous woman? A: When we talk about watches, we can not but talk about the Duchess of Windsor. The Duchess of Windsor is a bold woman, a woman who dares to challenge the royal family. She has an unshakable position in many years of outstanding global awards. Let me give you an example of how innovative and bold she is. Because she dare to wear such a lobster dress. This dress is the creation of Shapari, is a famous Italian designer. You imagine that a noblewoman wearing a lobster dress also takes great courage. Continue to talk about Cadenas watch. Duke of Windsor bought her such a platinum diamond snake-shaped watch, the dial is designed by the diamond tilt. There are hundreds of thousands of file cards stored in our file, each of the file card is written in the upper left is the number of jewelry. The name of the first buyer, here you see is Edward VIII written in French. Q: What are the legendary stories in Cadenas watch history? A: Its high exposure, "the last subway" actress Denis worn a Cadenas watch, because the film is about the 30s and 40s, they want to wear this watch reflects the sense of the times . At the same time, we have also lent this watch to the famous French actor Isabel · A Jiani, her current movie is the description of the 30s and 40s style. Lighter desk bell, 1936, Yellow K gold, Styptor alloy