Shock treatment, how to use screaming to climb more safely.
No matter how you pay attention to the knot's style of play, or to make the direction of the collar more correct, and Other safety habits, if your fixed point fails or the whole breaks, the chance of your injury will increase rapidly. In addition to the proper placement of the fixed point, are you still able to do other precautions to ensure that you and your partner reduce the chance of any fixed point falling off or failing?
The answer is, if you make good use of "screaming". Very simple, Screamer is designed to help your fixed point absorb the most impact force. This is a long flat strap, but it has been folded by a special tailor, so when you fall, the whole The tailoring line will smoothly pull away (self-destruct), absorbing most of the falling force.
The screaming took effect at a pressure of about 2KN (about 450 pounds) and the tailor line was constantly pulled out until the fall had stopped or no tailoring line could absorb the falling force. Afterwards, he was like The other general long stripe is the same. Tom Riggs, an aerospace engineer, had previously measured screaming belts in the laboratory and found that they are fairly average in their ability to absorb power. If you are interested in this, please refer to the following website, which will provide Screaming with technical data, including the drop factor, and Newton metric tons of pressure pull, or to see Petzl's technical manual.
The webmaster's "screaming" in Longdong
Then when should you start using screaming? In both cases, when you feel that the falling force is higher than before, or if you feel that the fixed point or ensure that the point is unreliable.
Left, the screaming band as a fixed point "shock absorber."
In the middle, be sure to hang a screaming band on a rotten quarter inch bolt.
(Webmaster's Note: The route developed in Longdong many years ago has screws of this size and use square iron pieces as ears. My suggestion is not to use them at all.)
Right, whether it can only go to half or the whole root has been buried, the ice screw pile is the most suitable to use the screaming belt.
First, when you're ready to hook a rope into an unreliable stud, or a very thin, quarter-inch old expansion bolt.
Second, very small micro-nuts, tri-cams, and other mini-equipments will almost always be equipped with a screaming band because of the potential for a very low drop factor in these devices. Failed.
Third, use artificial climbing. When you feel that there is a problem at any fixed point, put a screaming band on it. But if there is any point in the above you know it is bad, do not go hook rope, because in time to fall, you will waste a scream called. If you have a series of unreliable fixing points, this company Yates has done a special screaming band designed for artificial climbing. Its falling impact is more sensitive, can start at a lower drop factor, and then absorbed impact.
Fourth, at the beginning of a pitch, at a few fixed points in front of you, because the rope only goes out a little bit, so the fall factor is quite high, in the whole system, you do not have enough friction to absorb your Falling, these places are quite suitable for screaming.
Fifth, if you can see it, after releasing a fixed point, it is not until a long time or a long distance can you put down a fixed point, the so-called runout (long-distance unprotected technical terrain). Although your last fixed point is good, still put the screams.
Sixth, the ice climber should always use screams on the ice screw piles. The Yates company has done a special ice climbing scream, and the other side is tied (fixed) on the ice screw pile.
(Note: Although the general screaming band can also be used, you have to make sure that you carefully place the screams behind the hooked ears. On this side, note that the hooked ears must be large enough to prevent the screaming from taking place. The side is pulled out.)
Seventh, if the possibility of a fall is high, and it is very long, you can add two or three screaming bands to a series of belts to absorb more crash impacts, or use another Yate company to do more. The strong screams do "learn" the Zipper to absorb more power.
Lastly, if you fall, and the screams and all the lines have been pulled away, throw it away, because a screaming band is only ten dollars to the dollar, and it will go to the emergency treatment room of the hospital. more money.
Original English version: Climbing Technical Advice 203
No matter how you pay attention to the knot's style of play, or to make the direction of the collar more correct, and Other safety habits, if your fixed point fails or the whole breaks, the chance of your injury will increase rapidly. In addition to the proper placement of the fixed point, are you still able to do other precautions to ensure that you and your partner reduce the chance of any fixed point falling off or failing?
The answer is, if you make good use of "screaming". Very simple, Screamer is designed to help your fixed point absorb the most impact force. This is a long flat strap, but it has been folded by a special tailor, so when you fall, the whole The tailoring line will smoothly pull away (self-destruct), absorbing most of the falling force.
The screaming took effect at a pressure of about 2KN (about 450 pounds) and the tailor line was constantly pulled out until the fall had stopped or no tailoring line could absorb the falling force. Afterwards, he was like The other general long stripe is the same. Tom Riggs, an aerospace engineer, had previously measured screaming belts in the laboratory and found that they are fairly average in their ability to absorb power. If you are interested in this, please refer to the following website, which will provide Screaming with technical data, including the drop factor, and Newton metric tons of pressure pull, or to see Petzl's technical manual.
The webmaster's "screaming" in Longdong
Then when should you start using screaming? In both cases, when you feel that the falling force is higher than before, or if you feel that the fixed point or ensure that the point is unreliable.
Left, the screaming band as a fixed point "shock absorber."
In the middle, be sure to hang a screaming band on a rotten quarter inch bolt.
(Webmaster's Note: The route developed in Longdong many years ago has screws of this size and use square iron pieces as ears. My suggestion is not to use them at all.)
Right, whether it can only go to half or the whole root has been buried, the ice screw pile is the most suitable to use the screaming belt.
First, when you're ready to hook a rope into an unreliable stud, or a very thin, quarter-inch old expansion bolt.
Second, very small micro-nuts, tri-cams, and other mini-equipments will almost always be equipped with a screaming band because of the potential for a very low drop factor in these devices. Failed.
Third, use artificial climbing. When you feel that there is a problem at any fixed point, put a screaming band on it. But if there is any point in the above you know it is bad, do not go hook rope, because in time to fall, you will waste a scream called. If you have a series of unreliable fixing points, this company Yates has done a special screaming band designed for artificial climbing. Its falling impact is more sensitive, can start at a lower drop factor, and then absorbed impact.
Fourth, at the beginning of a pitch, at a few fixed points in front of you, because the rope only goes out a little bit, so the fall factor is quite high, in the whole system, you do not have enough friction to absorb your Falling, these places are quite suitable for screaming.
Fifth, if you can see it, after releasing a fixed point, it is not until a long time or a long distance can you put down a fixed point, the so-called runout (long-distance unprotected technical terrain). Although your last fixed point is good, still put the screams.
Sixth, the ice climber should always use screams on the ice screw piles. The Yates company has done a special ice climbing scream, and the other side is tied (fixed) on the ice screw pile.
(Note: Although the general screaming band can also be used, you have to make sure that you carefully place the screams behind the hooked ears. On this side, note that the hooked ears must be large enough to prevent the screaming from taking place. The side is pulled out.)
Seventh, if the possibility of a fall is high, and it is very long, you can add two or three screaming bands to a series of belts to absorb more crash impacts, or use another Yate company to do more. The strong screams do "learn" the Zipper to absorb more power.
Lastly, if you fall, and the screams and all the lines have been pulled away, throw it away, because a screaming band is only ten dollars to the dollar, and it will go to the emergency treatment room of the hospital. more money.
Original English version: Climbing Technical Advice 203
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